Until recently, largely unobserved by the rest of the world, Greece has been modernising their wine industry rapidly. This is particularly thrilling in view of the fact that the Greek wine industry is so ancient and seems determined to avoid the Chardonnay-and-Cabernet-only trap in its modern incarnation. Many Greek varieties are extinct or nearly so but the aromatic white Malagousia has been rescued, as has Lagorthi, and Crete’s Vilana. Santorini’s Assyrtiko, Roditis and Savatiano are widely planted varieties for white wines and Agiorgitiko, Mavrodaphne, Xinomavro and, to a lesser extent, Limniona are some of the better-known dark-skinned grapes.
Modern Greek wine is very much more than the traditional retsina, the aggressively pine resin-flavoured, full-bodied white of every Greek taverna and your local Greek restaurant.